Monday, May 14, 2012

Sailing Manokwari, Papua, Indonesia

Little So-and-sos
More funny FADs

Contrary to all appearances, this boat is not sinking, they've just got way too much wheelhouse built onto it!

Morning trash fire smoke over Manokwari

Convenient anchorage?  Helpful boatyard?  Nope- NAVAL BASE!
Population 60,000

Home to the fist missionaries in Papua, Manokwari today is a place of broad, quiet streets, many churches, and extensive waterfront slums.  To the south loom the dramatic Arfak mountains, home to traditional tribes, seaside transmigrasi villages, and birds of paradise.  In The Malay Archipelago, Wallace gives an amusing account of conditions here in the 19th century, during his unhappy soujourn in Manokwari.  Local guides  can arrange trips to the Arfak mountains. 
Basic hardware and repairs, supermarkets, restaurants, and a department store can be found here.  Also, (and apparently unique in Papua) there is an accessible fuel dock in the harbor.  Manokwari Customs was unusual in that it was staffed by local people and they did not ask us for a bribe.

Be aware of the dozens of Fish Aggregation Devices studding the approach to Manokwari, up to 10 miles offshore.  Two passes at south end of harbor marked by beacons.
As long as you can find room amongst the flat-bottomed, rope-and-rebar anchored local fishing boats, Manokwari harbor provides excellent shelter in all conditions.  Don’t be tempted to enter the man-made inlet and boatyard on the southwest side of the harbor; this is an unmarked naval base.  Anchor in 45’, mud.  We tied our dingy up to the semi-secure Port wharf where the Pelni ferries dock. 

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