Wednesday, April 11, 2012

The Museum Loka Budaya, Jayapura

In Abepura, near Jayapura, on the grounds of the Cenderiwasih University, is the surprisingly good Museum Loka Budaya.  It has a large collection of Papuan artifacts.  If you're lucky you will get a get a lengthy personal guided tour from a volunteer English student.  The museum was partially funded by donations from the Rockefeller family.  Michael Rockefeller disappeared in 1961 during an art-collecting/adventure expedition to the Asmat region of Papua.
Traditional tools/weapons

Fish Trap

Model of traditional sailing boat

Spears

Shields

Arrows and armor


Traditional fishing spears

Drums

Traditional pillow!







Sunday, April 1, 2012

Cruising Jayapura, Papua, Indonesia











Jayapura
Population 200,000

For us, coming to Jayapura from PNG was a huge culture shift- Jayapura is a typical Southeast Asian city- noisy, dirty, good food, low prices, safe streets at night.  Locals were friendly and outgoing but few spoke much English- lots of ‘hello misters’, even for Gini.  Jayapura has a sheltered, picturesque harbor and road links to scenic lake Sentani and shopping in Abepura.

Anchorage
Good shelter in most conditions can be found in Jayapura harbor. 
Approach. From the East: there are two shoals, one of which is marked, lying offshore to the southeast of the harbor entrance, south of the shipping area.  From the north: there is a large shoal NE of the northern harbor point. Be aware of many fishing platforms at the harbor entrance. 
Once inside, the harbor is generally clear with the exception of two well-marked reefs near the commercial docks and fringing reef around the two stilt-village clad islands.  A deep channel between the two reefs is marked by a red buoy on the northern side and a yellow buoy on the southern side.  Deep anchorage- 20m in mud can be found beyond the reef.  There is steady small runabout traffic through the anchorage and the concussions from nearby dynamite fishing were frequently audible through the hull.
We were able to tie up our dingy securely to the pilot boat dock, adjacent to the ferry wharf, behind customs.

Customs/Immigration
We checked in at Jayapura and had no issues.  Customs was very friendly and helped us with a number of questions during our visit.  There was no mention of the recently revoked bond law.
Immigration wanted no less than three copies of Everything- CAIT, crew list, ship’s papers, passports, visas, sponsor letter. 
Our surat jalan for all of Papua was free and fast of the city police station.

Fuel
Fuel can be obtained at commercial price through mobile fuel trucks or one of the Chinese shopkeepers.  Try the small boat operators for a possible subsidized fuel delivery.  We were able to fill jerry cans at the service station at the subsidized price US$2/gal.

Supplies
The main business centre consists of a number of small hardware, electronics, general retail shops, and restaurants on Jl Percetakan, Jl Ahmad Yani and Jl Sam Ratulangi.  Along the Jayapura-Sentani Road there is a long strip of upscale retail stores in Kotaraja/Abepura.  On top of a hill, just before Kota Raja there are a couple interesting temples with nice views- Hindu and Buddhist.  Sentani is full of small shops similar to those found in Jayapura but more run down.  Many Sentani shops were looted or destroyed in riots associated with the Papuan separatist movement in 1998-2002. 
The two night markets in town offer a modest range of vegetables.  10 min.s away by bus, the Hamadi market is one of the biggest in the region and open all day.  For limited western food products try Gelael in Jayapura, Sentani Square in Sentani, or the several large supermarkets in Abepura.
Bus fares along the Jayapura-Sentani road were as follows in 2012: Jayapura to Hamadi 2000Rp.  Hamadi to Entrop 2000Rp.  Entrop to Abepura 3000Rp.  Abepura to Waena 3000Rp.  Waena to Sentani 3000Rp.  Unless you are bus-lucky you may end up changing taxis in all these places if enroute to Sentani!  Taxi charter is about 50000 Rp/hour.
We discovered a knowledgeable electronics guy at Dok Lima in the northern suburbs.  Ask a taxi to take you to dok lima (5 min from the centre) and ask around for the computer repair guy.

Medical
The Rumah Sakit (hospital - literally “House of the Sick“) in Jayapura is not up to Western standards but has a lot more testing/treatment capabilities than you’ve seen recently if you’re coming from the Melanesia/most parts of the Pacific. 

Sailing Solomon Islands and PNG - some cruising basics 2012

A LITTLE GENERAL CRUISING INFO ON PNG AND SOLOMONS



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MELANESIA

In spite of certain negative points listed below, we found Melanesia to be, with a couple exceptions, a great place to visit- a true adventure. 

We traveled through the Solomons (Santa Cruz, Makira, Guadalcanal, Florida Islands, Russell Islands, Marovo and Vonavona Lagoons, Gizo, Choiseul) during October 2011 - Jan 2012, and PNG Feb-April 2012. 

SOME SOLOMONS CRUISING BASICS
Customs/immigration were simple, fast, and easygoing.  We had an extendable 3 month visa.  We met a boat that had actually been in the Solomons for several months before getting around to checking in.
Places to anchor were somewhat limited and often deep/exposed.  Alan Lucas’s guide was OK, but sometimes inaccurate.  ‘Solomon Islands Cruising Guide’ by Dirk Sieling was much better with good detail on lots of anchorages.  We rarely had enough wind to sail, but diesel delivery was generally easy to obtain at larger towns at about US $6-7/gal.  Most islands are sparsely populated with small villages.  Supplies and repair services were very limited and imported goods relatively expensive, even in large cities.  Local produce was real cheap- if you are on a shoestring budget stock up on used tshirts- you will get a week’s worth of veggies and sweet potatoes for one or two at isolated anchorages, and between that and rich fishing you should get by on $500/month or less unless the boat falls apart.  There are several small haul out facilities in the Floridas and Western Province, but they tend to be booked up.  Try Vella Lavella’s Liapari Bay.  The people of the Solomons are extremely friendly and helpful.  Most places we stopped, we were quickly besieged by  a dozen or more canoes full of curious, friendly kids and adults.  Pidgin is quite close to English and we generally had little trouble communicating even in very remote areas.  They were eager to learn about us and exchange local goods (carvings, sweet potatoes, plantains, island spinach, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, papayas, mangos, and bananas)  for manufactured goods.  Popular trade items from us were used clothing, fishing line and hooks, cheap dive masks, seeds, batteries- especially D size, carving tools and sandpaper, books and magazines, DVDs, and candy, marbles, and balloons for the kids.  Bring a bag of goods into a village and you will see a veritable feeding frenzy!

SOME PNG CRUISING BASICS
Customs/immigration was pretty painless.  We applied for a 60day visa in Honiara.  It’s rumored to be a painful process to extend one’s visa.  We had no difficulty finding good anchorages in PNG.  We used the Southeast Asia Cruising Guide, which we don’t like because it is strangely laid out and only has info on major ports.  As in the Solomons, there was rarely a sailing wind during the northwest monsoon.  We had great difficulty progressing up the north coast Wewak-Jayapura against the NW monsoon in April- we made three attempts to leave Wewak, and two from Vanimo.  It blew 20-25 knots down the coast, with some nasty squalls, pretty consistently for the 3 weeks in March we were there.  PNG is a lot more developed than the Solomons, with a number of large cities and tin-and-wood villages instead of thatch huts.  Availability of supplies and repair facilities in cities was not great, but better than in the Solomons.  Diesel delivery was readily available in towns at about US $6-7/gallon.  Local produce was very cheap (about the same price as the Solomons) and our manufactured trade goods were in demand in the more isolated anchorages.

THE SOLOMONS/PNG SECURITY QUESTION-
Solomons and PNG have some of the most beautiful islands and coral in the Pacific.  Melanesian people are some of the nicest we’ve met anywhere.  During our seven months here we saw only 6 other sailboats and met the most interesting expats…
But there was obvious political unrest and violent crime problems in both the Solomons and PNG.  The majority of it in Solomons seemed to be between locals, and was unlikely to involve foreigners.  The day we pulled in to Honiara, the government was overturned in a vote of no confidence.  The city was closed down, riot police and troublemaking crowds owned the streets, and there were (fortunately untrue) rumors that they were burning down Chinatown again.  There were three other sailboats in the harbor.  One had a guard aboard, one had been attacked by pirates in the Floridas and suffered machete wounds, and one had been boarded by opportunistic thieves twice in the Floridas. That said, we never felt threatened in the Solomons, and we found it easy to avoid the few trouble spots (eg parts of the Floridas).  We’re glad we went; it was one of our favorite countries.  If you do go to the Floridas, we would highly recommend starting at Jonny Ruka’s (ask other cruisers or look for the village on the southern side of  the northeastern-most bay off the Sandfly Channel)- he and his village will provide night-long security boats, information on where to go/not to go, and a great welcoming feast if you desire.

In PNG, Kieta, Buka, New Ireland, Rabaul, and eastern New Britain had a pretty safe and laid-back vibe and not too many rascal problems.  Most people were really, really friendly and outgoing.  In Kimbe and point west the atmosphere in town seemed a little more sullen and aggressive, and we started hearing expat statements like “Don’t walk around alone” “don’t go to the Talasea Peninsula”.  We felt that these were exaggerated and didn’t pay too much attention.  Once we got to the mainland (Madang, Wewak, Vanimo), there was a definite aggressive attitude and some verbal harrassment of Gini and attempted touching from lots of unemployed men hanging around the city centres. 

PNG is very different from the Solomons.  It has a high violent crime rate against both locals and foreigners.  Rape and domestic abuse are very common- estimated to occur in 90% of families in parts of the Highlands.  The justice systems is pretty much non-functional.  PNG is rich in natural resources, but it would appear that over the past 30+ years most of the revenue from these has gone into politicians’ pockets, rather than into infrastructure and services for the people.  To anyone planning a trip to PNG, I would strongly recommend getting a feel for the place by spending a week reading the online headlines of the two major newspapers- The Post Courier and the National.  You will be amazed.  All this was balanced by the fact that there are many reasonably safe, beautiful destinations in PNG.  Many sailors, tourists, solo female travelers, etc pass through every year without having any problems.  The culture and diversity is amazing and most of the people are wonderful.  For us, PNG was a great adventure, but maybe not a family destination.

Some of our interesting PNG experiences:

-     While we were in Buka (Bougainville), armed elements of the former Bougainville rebel forces seized three ships and held them and their crews hostage.  They demanded compensation payments for deaths in a recent ferry sinking that killed 200+ people.  PNG police and army were powerless to do anything.  The affair ended when the rebs released the crews and towed the ships out to a reef and burnt them.
-     Some young men came out to the boat at night in canoes at Lavinia anchorage in south New Ireland at about 1800.  We heard a bump against the boat and came out to look around and apparently scared them off.  We noticed in the morning that some things had been stolen- a couple shirts and trunks, small pieces of hardware and some rope.  We had made some friends in the area who immediately told us who did it, so we went into the village with them and talked to the chief and got most of it back.
-     The morning we arrived in Madang there were four separate armed robberies of businesses in town.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Waihi Gold Mine

Paraphrased from ‘Waihi’s Gold’ brochure by the Newmont Gold Co, Waihi, NZ.  A leading gold producer with operations on 5 continents.Gold was discovered at Martha Hill in 1978 by John McCombie and Robert Lee.  The first stamper battery started operating in 1882.  The Martha mine was closed in 1952 after producing 5.6 million oz of gold and 38.4 million oz of silver.  In the 70s rising gold prices led to the reopening of the mine.
The Martha open pit and the Favona reef system underground mines are currently being operated.  In recent decades the Martha mine has been producing an average of 100,000 oz gold and 700,000 oz silver/yr. 
The Waihi gold deposits sit within an andesitic pluton created millions of years ago.  Earthquakes cracked the pluton and hot water rose up through the cracks and left veins or reefs of quartz and trace minerals like gold and silver.  Erosion has since exposed the pluton.  The Martha Lode is huge by world standards - 1.6km long, 600m deep, and up to 30 m wide.  This has mostly been worked out now and smaller veins are being exploited.  Rock with as little as one gram of gold per tonne can be mined economically using open pit modern technology.  The open pit operates 12 hrs/day, 5.5 days/wk.  The Favona underground mine operates 24/7.
The area was explored in the 70s and 80s by drilling 92 45degree holes up to 450m deep.  Other exploration methods include trenching, aerial surveys, stream and surface sediment sampling, and geological mapping. 
Mining of ore and waste rock occur separately.  Rock is loosened by blasting and removed, and the blasted areas are bolted, meshed, and sprayed with shotcrete.  Since 2006 most activity in the open pit has been rehabilitation work.
Blasted ore is run through a primary crusher, than old mining debris (steel, wood, etc) is removed.  The crushed ore is delivered to the mill on a long conveyer belt.  Then it is ground to a fine powder in a mill with hardened steel balls, lime, and water.  This is placed in large tanks where a weak cyanide solution dissolves the gold and silver, which is then adsorbed onto activated carbon granules.  The carbon is screened out and washed with super-heated water to remove the precious metals.  The metals are removed from solution in electro winning cells where they adhere to stainless steel cathodes.  The muddy sludge off the cathodes is dried and put in a furnaces with fluxes.  The result is a slag of impurities and 99% pure gold/silver mix. 
The slurry of tailings is stored until the solids settle out.  UV lights breaks down the residual cyanide into carbon and nitrogen.  Underdrains and perimeter drains surround the tanks to isolate seepage from groundwater.  Waste rock embankments are gradually rehabilitated into pasture and wetland areas.  According to Newmont, waste water pumped out of the mines and from tailing pools is carefully monitored for cleanliness before it is released into a nearby river.
An eighteen-member mine rescue team of Newmont employees is training in firefighting, hazmat, rope and confined space rescue, first aid, and use of closed-circuit long duration breathing apparatus for underground rescue.  The team is available to assist local emergency services in non-mine events. 
The long-term rehabilitation plan for the mine involves transfer of the area to a charitabl. 
Modern uses of gold include treatment of arthritis, some cancers, chronic ulcers, patching damaged blood vessels, nerves, bones, and membranes, dental work, electronics, solar radiation protection in the space program, insulation and glare reduction in hi rises, and more.  Uses of silver include xray film, burn creams, purifying water, production of some textiles, batteries, photographic film, and solar panels.

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Produce in Melanesia

Fiji - most small villages we visited did not have organized outdoor markets; there seemed to be little formal trading between families or villages since everyone was growing the exact same thing.  Once or twice we received gifts or trades of homegrown produce from a friendly local.  In larger villages and towns there was often a Chinese or Indian shop with some basic processed foods and freshies. 
When we found a market we could usually choose from cabbage, lettuce, tomatoes, eggplant, onions, papayas, bananas, plantains, limes, breadfruit, coconuts, taro, cassava, and kava.  The best-stocked markets also offered watermelons, pineapple, capsicums, squash, beans, fern fronds, raw peanuts, and spring onions.  The local diet often is limited to unseasoned fish and taro and seems bland to the extreme.

Vanuatu markets were a little easier to find, even in the small villages.  If there was no formal market there was usually someone who was interested in selling produce from their garden to passing yachts.  Choices were roughly the same as in Fiji, though as we moved north the variety improved and goodies such as ngali nuts, yams, sweet potatoes, capsicums, star fruit, oranges, island pears, and island cabbage became easy to find.  Vanuatu prices were a bit cheaper than Fiji ones.

Solomons - Honiara has one of the biggest produce markets in the area.  Here we encountered Kumara (sweet potato), cassava, taro, yams, manioc, pana, ngali nuts, cutnuts, betel nuts, bush limes, mandarins, oranges, lemons, pommelo (oversize grapefruit), breadfruit, star fruit, mangoes, opiti, pineapple, watermelon, pumpkin, snake beans, wing beans, runner beans, pak choi, saladeria (both types of Chinese cabbage), slippery cabbage, swamp cabbage, English cabbage, fern shoots, pumpkin shoots, spring onions, eschallots, sugar cane, pawpaws, bananas, plantains, coconuts, avocados, and more…
Outer islands often featured markets or trading canoes offering betel nut, bread, bananas, papayas, pineapple, peppers, tomatoes, squash, and various greens such as western cabbage, island cabbage of the dark green and light green varieties, fern fronds, and a horseradish-like green vegetable.
Solomons prices and variety have been the better than Fiji and Vanuatu so far.  In particular, it seems that one can always get island cabbage, pineapple, and watermelon.  We have not seen any kava, Island pears, lettuce, or western cabbage here yet.

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Friday, October 14, 2011

Banks Islands, Vanuatu

Mowing the airport

Long House

Long House

Rainy day in a small village

Village water supply

Village gathering area under the mango tree

Waterfall anchorage Gaua

Waterfall anchorage

Sea cave

Local kid surfing a lil break in a homebuilt canoe


Village buried by volcanic ashfall last year

Longhouse


Dance in honor of a french captain who rescued some villagers

Dance in honor of a french captain who rescued some villagers

In the Ureparapara cauldera

Ureparapara cauldera

The entrance to Ureparapara anchorage
Left Port Orly at dawn for Gaua in near perfect calm, motoring.  Had waited 1 day for wind but no luck.  Just out of harbor something bit the line.  Thought it was nothing, no weight.  Then Cpt started reeling in and I saw it jump out far - big swordfish!!!  Thought no way we’d get it in on lil 25 test line (squid lure, #14 hook).  Fought it a lil, it jumps at times, swims down or sideways, had to turn boat a few times, worried it would break line or cut it with sword.  Cpt had never gotten one of these unless out on a fishing trip specifically for them, great meat and fighting fish.  After about ½ hr it’s close, beaut rainbow fish.  Up next to boat, gaff it, and about 5 seconds later the line breaks!  Get the rope over its tail and I hold it out of water so it’ll start to die.  Takes a long time- mbe ½ hr.  It measures 8’2”!!!!
Wind picks up and we have to make course change so we don’t make anchorage by night.  Go to south one marked on chart plotter.  Give sailfish meat to village, get some coconuts and peppers back haha.  And kava.  Spend nice eve sitting and talking to them, pretty village, huts mostly new looking, was evacuated last year for the volcanic eruption, they only came back 9 months ago.  Lost just one house in eruption,. Most pigs and chickens were lost (don’t know if killed/starved/feral).  People seem happy, red cross guy says it hasn’t been too hard on kids.  He’s here f E side for a week doing training.  He says they only have one small fiberglass boat for evacuation- how did they do it?  It’s really rugged terrain here.  Lots of Banks Islands people go to Luganville for work.  One girl in village went to Aus to play water music.
Kayaked out to waterfalls falling right into the sea- small now, big yesterday in rain.  Lil cave with swallows, red ants, lots of green stuff growing in it.  Landed on rocks in some swell.  Big hole excavated by waterfall, nice shower.  Go to village to say goodbye and they thank us for the fish and double check to see if we also have some batteries-panadol-potatoes-sunglasses-etc hahaha.
It’s 12 miles to the north anchorage, Losalaya Bay.  The going’s good iin light wind on W side of Gaua, but when we came around to the N side suddenly it’s blowing 20 from where we wanna go.  We don‘t make it do the passage until sunset, and the light is awful. The chart marks passage about a mile south of where it really is, we feel our way into the shallow passage in big swells, have to pull out twice before we find the right route.  A bit ugly.  We anchor safely as the sun slips below the horizon.
I read up on our equatorial destinations.  The ITCZ- the InterTropical Convergence Zone- lies just north of the equator and the SPCZ- South Pacific Convergence Zone- extends from near the Solomon Islands to Samoa and beyond.   Convergence zone are areas of low pressure where converging, rising air produces clouds and rainfall.  The SE trades associated with the SPCZ are weaker than their NE counterparts, but they are extremely steady such that completely calm conditions under the SPCZ are encountered not more than 30% of the time and the region is one of the most persistently cloudy on earth.

Our next stop is Waterfall Bay.  What a friendly place!  The family who lives here greets us with a little formal ceremony and a song about their home.  The bay has a black sand beach, springs, and nice high cliff caves.  We land kayaks on coral shelves and walk in, shoeless, on waxy black basalt rocks.  Each cave had a dif pool, some with green algae scum, some smelling of swallow droppings, some clear and clean, some w lots crabs, lil fishes, even saw one fish that looked like a lil trigger!  Water salty, even in caves 30’ above sea level.  The coral in the bay had big drop offs in clear water, almost like floating islands of coral.  Swam in shallows.  Waterfall nice, twin falls into big pool.  Lower pool for washing, upper pool for bathing… some political stuff going on between families on either side of waterfall, as usual in the islands.

Sailed f waterfall and saw another very tall  waterfall 80’ mbe, and tried to go to it. Anchored temporarily in deep calm water and kayaked in onto some very evil cheesegrater limestone over black volcanic rocks.  Waterfall fell into a sort of deep cup of slick black thickly vegetated rock so we didn’t have time to go up to it, strong rapids coming down to sea.  Very cool to just stumble upon a big waterfall like that.
Sailed in 10-20 knots SE, watching thunderstorms over Ureparapara the whole way, then sailed into them, we went below for one good shower.  Beaut island, big blown-out cauldera with high cliffy walls surrounding big bay open to east.
Village fairly friendly, walked around, beaut houses, some places like a resort, small, all thatch, palm thatch and bamboo sides, some with colored sides.  Big village with central area with boys house, church, meeting hall, etc.  Few pigs, lots chickens.  Not many pigs in Banks Islands.  There is a catamaran in the anchorage that saved the lives of several villagers here last year, when their boat ran out of fuel and they went adrift.  They put on a cute welcoming dance for him, telling the story with hats that looked like fish and catamarans.  Later we climbed up to the cauldera rim.  Given the steepness of the hill, the path was surprisingly negotiable.  Glad we did it.  Cleared area on top with nice view and reassurance that the trades were blowing out of SE and not north (which was what we felt inside cauldera).  Always cloudy and gloomy inside the cauldera.

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Seafood in the Solomons

The Solomon Islands have rich seas that offer a variety of seafood.
Shellfish can often by obtained by trading with villagers.  These include lobster and mud crab, which are caught at night using a waterproof flashlight (perhaps loaned by you).  Other shellfish include Mangrove oysters, mud oysters (a kind of cockle), coconut crabs (not recommended- they are endangered), and freshwater prawns.  In the western provinces there are areas of 7th day Adventists, who do not drink alcohol or caffeine, or eat shellfish or sharks.  These areas are therefore underexploited and good fishing grounds.
A great variety of eating fish can be caught, and the Solomons are generally not plagued by ciguatera.  Toothy characters include Great Barracuda, Kingfish (Spanish mackerel or Tanguige), Dogtooth tuna, sharks, and sailfish.  Also present are Giant Trevally, Dogtooth tuna, Coral trout, Red Seabass, Mangrove Jacks.  A great variety of Grouper, Jobfish, Emperor, and Snapper can be caught best by bottom fishing with bait at anchor.  Squid hanging around the boat can be caught with a squid jig or even a simple length of light nylon line teased in front of the squid until they grab it and are pulled in.
For awhile we didn’t bother putting a line out while making passages, as we thought 5 knots+ was too fast for trolling.  However, since Espirito Santo we’ve put out a lil 40lb test line with a purple squid lure every time we run out of fish, and have had great luck catching bluefin tuna, Spanish mackerel, and one whopping sailfish- 8’2”! 

Saturday, October 1, 2011

A Favorite magazine- Wilderness Medicine Newsletter

From “Ticks are Little Cesspools”
e trust (funded by Newmont) and creation of a recreational lakeGoodies from the Wilderness Medicine Newsletter (published by TMC Books - to get an online subscription, write to info@tmcbooks.com ).  Paraphrased from Sept/Oct 2010 issue.

Ticks are the leading insect-borne disease vector in the US, and second in the world (after mosquitos).  95% of insect-borne diseases in the US are caused by ticks.  All tickborne diseases are parasitic. 

Here are all the North American tick bourne diseases (DOCs listed are for adults):

Lyme Disease
Anaplasmosis - bacteria that attacks white blood cells  Vague flulike symptoms.  Treatment is doxy 100mg             7-14 days.  E and Central US.
Human Monocytic Ehrlichiosis - bacteria that attacks white blood cells  Vague flulike symptoms, maybe rash and joint pain.  Treatment is doxy 100mg 7-14 days.  Southern half US.
Human Ewingii Ehrlichiosis - bacteria that attacks white blood cells  Vague flulike symptoms.  Treatment is doxy 100mg 7-14 days. 
Cat Scratch Fever - uncommon, usually pediatric.  Swollen lymph nodes, flulike symptoms.  Reservoir is the domestic cat.  Doxy, or pt will recover without treatment in time.
Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever - see below
Colorado Tick Fever - attacts RBCs.  Self-limiting and not dangerous.  Start-stop fever and dengue-like symptoms. 
Tularemia - see below
STARI (Southern Tick- Associated Rash Illness) - similar to Lyme disease, SE and South US.  Treat with doxy 100mg for 2-3 weeks.
Tickborne Relapsing Fever - Western US, attacks blood vessels, mortality 1% treated, 30-70% without treatment.  Abrupt onset, relapsing high fever, shaking rigors, flulike symptoms.  Treat with doxy 100-200mg for 7 days.
Babes iosis - rare malaria-like illness, attacts RBCs.  Treatment is malaria drugs or clindamycin/other.
Tick Paralysis - caused by a neurotoxin in the saliva of the gravid female tick.  Usually peds.  Treat by removing tick (often hidden at hairline).
Q Fever - see below
Tickborne Encephalitis (Deer Tick Virus) - virus, causes headache, neck and back pn, etc.  Supportive treatment only.

Yikes-! one more reason to live every day to its fullest… you never know… (although I guess an alternative argument for sitting inside on the couch all day could be made here). 
Ticks are small arachnid ectoparasites that feed on mammals, birds, and occasionally  reptiles or amphibians.  It is estimated that ticks transmit a greater number and variety of diseases than any other arthropod.  Female ticks lay about 3000 eggs on the ground in late spring.  Once hatched, ticks take blood meals from 3 different hosts at successive stages of their life cycle- as a larvae, nymph, and adult.  This is important because nymphs are small and hard to detect but can still pass on disease.  Ticks live 1-2 years.  Disease is spread between hosts when the tick’s contaminated saliva is injected into the host as an anticoagulant. 

A little detail on a few of the diseases caused by ticks:
Lyme Disease - caused by a bacterial spirochete spread by the deer tick in the east and the blacklegged tick in the west.  Is relatively common and can cause lifelong morbidity.  Fortunately a deer tick must be attached for at least 24 hours to transmit the disease, so a thorough search after outdoor activities may detect a vector in time.  Lyme disease is most commonly spread by small, easy-to-miss nymphs.  Reservoirs are white footed mice, meadow voles, whitetail deer, and some species of birds. 
By the time symptoms appear, the disease has disseminated throughout all body systems.  There are three stages:
1) Early localized disease: After incubation of 3-30days.  The classic sign is erythema migrans - a red bullseye rash which can be present anywhere on the body, not just the bite site, and is diagnostic if >5cm.  Occurs in 50-80% of cases.
Fever, headache, muscle pain, joint pain, swollen lymph nodes near bite.  Victim may be asymptomatic.
2) Early Disseminated Disease: 2-6 weeks or more:
Multiple erythematic migrans, secondary annular lesions, cranial neuropathies in 15% cases, lymphcytic or aseptic meningitis, cardiac manifestations in 8%, orchitis, hepatitis, hepatosplenomegaly, conjunctivitis, migratory joint pains, swollen throat
3) Late or Chronic Disease - 2-4 months or more.  Arthritis, synovitis, tendonitis, bursitis - 50% cases, neuropsychiatry behaviors: psychosis, dementia, memory loss, depression.  Encephalopathic symptoms: headaches, confusion, fatigue, memory loss.  May mimic other CNS diseases: Parkinsons, MS, stroke-like, neuronitis.
Tickbite prophylaxis is a single 200mg dose of doxycycline.  Treatment is doxy 100mg/day for at least 28 days.  An estimated 20% of people with Lyme disease have a second tick-borne illness as well.

Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever is rare, with about 1000 cases/year, mostly in children.  It causes disseminated small blood vessel damage that can be fatal without treatment. 
Incubation is 2-14 days.  Symptoms include fever, chills, severe headache, muscle pain, mental confusion, followed by the rash.  The rash looks like small flat red spots that start at the wrists and ankles and move up centrally, usually sparing the face.  The rash gets bumpier over time.  10% of pts do not get the rash. 
Treatment is doxy 200mg for 7-14 days.

Tularemia is a hardy bacteria that survives well in cold dry environments.  It is capable of passing through healthy undamaged skin.  Spread by ticks, deer flies, handling infected pelts, eating infected meat, or drinking infected water.  Reservoir is rabbits, hares, pikas.  Occurs in North America and Europe.  Worldwide there are 500,000 cases/per, but only 150-300 in the US. 
There are 6 forms of tularemia, depending on transmission mode:
70-80% Ulcero glandular - caused by insect bite or contamination of open wound
Glandular- rare, no ulcerations, bacteria gained access direct into bloodstream
Oculoglandular - from contaminated fluids splashed into eye
Oro  pharyngeal - from ingestion contaminated meat
Pneumonic- from inhalation contaminated droplets
Typhoid al - from ingestion contaminated meat
Incubation 1-21 days, then swollen skin papules at site of bite which progress to ulceration with fever and swollen lymph nodes in groin and armpits.  Flulike symptoms, conjunctivitis, sweating, dyspnea, weight loss, joint stiffness. 
Streptomycin is the DOC: 1-2 gm/day for 7 days, or doxy 100 mg for at least 14 days.

Q fever is usually contracted via infected droplets from cattle, sheep, or goats in stockyards across America, but ticks can also be a vector.  It is highly virulent- 1 bacterium can cause disease, and it resists drying for long periods. 
Incubation is 20 days, then acute illness is flu-like and can last 3 weeks.  1/3 of all cases develop into hepatitis or pneumonia.  If untreated it can turn into chronic Q fever with long-term heart, lung, and liver damage. 
Responds best if treatment started within 3 days.  Doxy 100 mg 2-3 weeks.

Elsewhere in the world:
Lyme Borreliosis - the European and Asian version of US Lyme disease
Crimean- Congo Hemorrhagic Fever - a virus in the Yellow Fever/dengue family- attacts blood vessels.  Spontaneous bruising and internal bleeding, supportive care only, cab be fatal. 
Kyasunur Forest Disease - similar to above
Omsk Hemorrhagic Fever - similar to above
Boutonneuse Fever -
African Tick Fever - similar to Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever
And Australia has 4 diseases that are similar to Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever: Queensland Tick Typhus, Flinders Island Spotted Fever, Murine Typhus, Scrup Typhus.  (yet another fun discovery for the Aussie settlers)
And more………

So wear insect repellent, sleep under netting, and do frequent tick checks!

BTW, I love this Wilderness Medicine Rag:
The Wilderness Medicine Newsletter (published by TMC Books - to get an online subscription, write to info@tmcbooks.com
A 3 yr subscription to this bi-monthly electronic magazine aimed at outdoorsmen, EMS providers, and healthcare workers costs $30.  I only wish they included a CEH credit option for my state in each issue!
These are their topics over the years: 
1 May 1988 Head Injury, Headache
2 June 1988 Feet, Sprains & Strains, Blisters
3 July 1988 Heat Injury, Heat Cramps
4 August 1988 Lyme Disease, Insect Bites
5 September 1988 Wound Management, Wound Infection, Giardia
6 October 1988 Hypothermia, Immersion Foot
7 November 1988 Legal Aspects, Major Wound Care, Epistaxis
8 December 1988 Hx of Wild Med, Snakebite, Hyperventilation
9 January 1989 Frostbite, Cervical Spine
10 February 1989 Altitude Illness, Yeast Infections, Spinal Assessment
11 March 1989 Neck Pain, Altitude, Rashes, Poisoning
12 April 1989 Dental Emergencies, Poisoning Chart, Otitis Externa
13 May 1989 Backache, Poisoning, Heartburn
14 June 1989 Rabies, Cocaine, Anaphylaxis
15 July 1989 Dysbarism, Lyme, Sunburn
16 August 1989 Lightning, Common Cold, Altered LOC
17 September 1989 Malaria, Healing, Fractured Clavicle, Asthma, Peter Hackett, MD
18 October 1989 Feet, Fractures, Mushrooms
19 Nov/Dec 1989 Toxic Shock Syndrome, Spider Bites, Femur, Frostbite
20 Jan/Feb 1990 Optic Injuries, Pain, Rescue Tobaggan, Hand Injuries
21 Mar/Apr 1990 Naegleria, Panic, Hypothermia, Red Tide, Cold Sores
22 May/June 1990 Insects, Allergies, Water, Fishhooks, Water Disinfection
23 July/Aug 1990 Violent Behavior, SCIM, SOAPnote, Poison Ivy, Patellofemoral
24 Sept/Oct 1990 Immersion, Bears, Hearing, Carpal Tunnel, Femur
25 Nov/Dec 1990 Tendonitis. Tetanus, Asthma, Hobo Spider, Shin Splints
Vol. 2, 1 Jan/Feb 1991 Fever, Hypothermia, Leptospirosis
2 Mar/Apr 1991 Fractures, Hypothermia,
3 May/June 1991 Infectious Disease, Hypothermia, Amputation
4 July/Aug 1991 Dehydration, Dogs, Leeches, Facial fractures
5 Sept/Oct 1991 SAR Basics, Cervical Spine, Raynaud’s Syndrome
6 Nov/Dec 1991 BP, Hand Injuries, Arthritis
Vol. 3, 1 Jan/Feb 1992 HBV, Socks, Snakebite
2 Mar/Apr 1992 Med Hx, Fibromyalgia, Appendicitis
3 May/June 1992 Drugs, Activated Charcoal, Vapor Barriers
4 July/Aug 1992 Ankle Injuries, Knee Injuries, Vapor Barriers
5 Sept/Oct 1992 Psych Assessment, NOLS
6 Nov/Dec 1992 Deep Wounds, Burn Care
Vol 4, 1 Jan/Feb 1993 Anaphylaxis, Puma Attacks
2 Mar/Apr 1993 Helicopter, Ailing Nails, Insects
3 May/June 1993 Diving Emergencies, Suicide, UTI
4 July/Aug 1993 Water Disinfection, Cryptosporidium, Hantavirus, Hygiene
5 Sept/Oct 1993 Book Review Issue
6 Nov/Dec 1993 Asthma, Seizures, Diabetes
Vol. 5, 1 Jan/Feb 1994 Legal Issues
2 Mar/Apr 1994 Wild Pediatrics
3 May/June 1994 Zoonoses
4 July/Aug 1994 Ozone & UV light
5 Sept/Oct 1994 The 5 Commandments of First Aid Kits
6 Nov/Dec 1994 Principles of Wild EMS, Newsletter moves back to SOLO
Vol. 6, 1 Jan/Feb 1995 Can I Do That, Legally?, Cellulitis, William Forgey, MD
2 Mar/Apr 1995 Outdoor Leadership—Past and Present, Diamox
3 May/June 1995 Parasitology, HAV, Warren Bowman, MD
4 July/Aug 1995 Wilderness Pediatrics, Allerigies
5 Sept/Oct 1995 Hypothermia, Keith Conover, MD
6 Nov/Dec 1995 Chest Injuries, Cardiac Risk, Anaphylaxis, Frank Hubbell, DO
Vol. 7, 1 Jan/Feb 1996 Hello, 911? Murray Hamlet, DVM
2 Mar/Apr 1996 Eating disorders, Bill Herring, MD
3 May/June 1996 Immersion Foot, Robert Rose, MD
4 July/Aug 1996 Musculoskeletal system I
5 Sept/Oct 1996 Lightning
6 Nov/Dec 1996 Potpourri: Frostbite, chilblains, Avalanche, David Kuhns, PAC
Vol. 8, 1 Jan/Feb 1997 Musculoskeletal system II
2 Mar/Apr 1997 Drowning, Ask the Experts
3 May/June 1997 Rabies, Ask the Experts
4 Jul/Aug 1997 Women’s Health Issues, Ask the Experts
5 Sept/Oct 1997 Water, Water, Everywhere…Death in the Backcountry
6 Nov/Dec 1997 Medecine Sans Frontieres
Vol. 9, 1 Jan/Feb 1998 Avalanche Awareness
2 Mar/Apr 1998 ALS in the Backcountry
3 May/June 1998 The Charcoal Vest – hypothermia
4 July/Aug 1998 ISMM – Case, Summer Review – Heat Injuries
5 Sept/Oct 1998 What’s Your Position – GPS, Trenchfoot
6 Nov/Dec 1998 Gender Specific Emergencies, Hypothermia
Vol. 10, 1 Jan/Feb 1999 Tendonitis, Musculoskeletal problems
2 Mar/Apr 1999 Anaphylaxis, Clearing the Cervical spine
3 May/June 1999 Wild – Critical Incident, Kayaking injuries
4 July/Aug 1999 Children in the Mountains
5 Sept/Oct 1999 Oh, My Aching Feet, Joy of Socks,
6 Nov/Dec 1999 Breathing Hard in the Backcountry, Pre-Existing Conditions
Vol. 11, 1 Jan/Feb 2000 Lions & Tigers & Bears, Oh My,
2 Mar/Apr 2000 Unraveling Abdominal Pain, Oral fluids, cave rescue
3 May/June 2000 Sunscreen Controversy, Dehydration & Heat Injury
4 July/Aug 2000 Leadership in Prevention, Lost Proofing
5 Sept/Oct 2000 Stonefish, Sea snakes, & Jellyfish, Shark bites
6 Nov/Dec 2000 Got the Travel Bug, Bugs in Bed
Vol. 12, 1 Jan/Feb 2001 Have You Ever Wondered Why?
2 Mar/Apr 2001 Don’t Blame Montezuma
3 July/Aug 2001 Contact Dermatitis
4 July/Aug 2001 Diabetes in the Wilderness, Answers to Common Wild ?
5 Sept/Oct 2001 Wilderness Rescue in the Winter Environment
6 Nov/Dec 2001 Survey of Backcountry Drugs
Vol. 13, 1 Jan/Feb 2002 Brief History of Wilderness Med Outside the Golden Hour
2 Mar/Apr 2002 Managing a Backcountry Fatality
3 May/June 2002 The World of Infectious Disease
4 July/Aug 2002 Preventing Infectious Disease, Schistosomiasis
5 Sept/Oct 2002 Cardiac Disease, Aspirin, West Nile Virus
6 Nov/Dec 2002 Risk Management Briefing, Psychotropics, smallpox
Vol. 14, 1 Jan/Feb 2003 Weather, Psychotropics, Giardia
2 Mar/Apr 2003 Musculoskeletal Trauma I, Psychotropics part 2
3 May/June 2003 Musculoskeletal Trauma II
4 July/Aug 2003 Lightning, Beauty & the Beast
5 Sept/Oct 2003 Musculoskeletal Trauma III, Pain Control
6 Nov/Dec 2003 The Performance Triad, H2O, Water purification
Vol. 15, 1 Jan/Feb 2004 When Jack Frost Bites, Mike Lynn
2 Mar/Apr 2004 Changes in Level of Consciousness, part 1
3 May/June 2004 Changes in Level of Consciousness, part 2
4 July/Aug 2004 The Heart of the Problem, Acute MI, Giant Hogweed
5 Sept/Oct 2004 Dental Emergencies, STARI, dislocated patella
6 Nov/Dec 2004 Frozen Mythbusters
Vol. 16, 1 Jan/Feb 2005 Non-Freezing Cold Injuries, Free Radicals
2 March/April 2005 Self-Preservation – Disaster Response
3 May/June 2005 Heat-Related illness
4 July/Aug 2005 Malaria
5 Sept/Oct 2005 Eye Injuries
6 Nov/Dec 2005 Burns
Vol. 19, 1 Jan/Feb 2006 Soft Tissue Injuries: Part 1
2 March/April 2006 Soft Tissue Injuries: Part 2
3 May/June 2006 First Aid Kits, Crush Injuries
4 July/August 2006 Poisonous Pearls (of wisdom)
5 Sept/Oct 2006 SNAP! Crackle Pop: Orthopedic Emergencies
6 Nov/Dec 2006 High Altitude Illness
Vol. 20, 1 Jan/Feb 2007 20 Years of Wilderness Medicine—a retrospective
2 Mar/April 2007 The First Five Minutes—the Patient Assessment System
3 May/June 2007 The First Five Minutes—Critical Care
4 July August 2007 Barotrauma—Deep Trouble
5 Sept/Oct 2007 Allergies—Runny Nose to Anaphylaxis
6 Nov/Dec 2007 The Rist of Caring
Vol. 21, 1 Jan/Feb 2008 Disaster, TB, Nausea, Tib-Fib splint, WMN Extreme Makeover
2 March/April 2008 Navigation, Dengue, Constipation, Laxatives, Traction Splint
3 May/June 2008 Diabetes, Yellow Fever, Fever, Pelvic Sling
4 July/August 2008 Facial Trauma, Water-Borne Disease, Spine, Water, Pain, Blisters
5 Sept/Oct 2008 Shortness of Breath, giardiasis, inhalers, eye abrasions/impalements
6 Nov/Dec 2008 Respiratory trauma, cholera, fishhooks, bugs in ear, antihistamines
Vol. 22, 1 Jan/ Feb 2009 A Winter Primer
2 March/April 2009 Summer Primer, influenza, rhinitis, dermatology, boot bash, Africa Prt I
3 May /June 2009 Summer Primer, influenza, rhinitis, dermatology, boot bash, Africa Prt II
4 July/August 2009 Principles of Long-Term Patient Care-Part I
5 Sept/Oct 2009 Principles of Long-Term Patent Care -Part II
6 Nov/Dec Special Haiti edition: Disaster Management Revisited
Vol. 23, 1 Jan/Feb 2010 Celiac Disease
2 March/April Abdominal Trauma
3 May/June Abdominal Emergencies
4 July/August Marine Bites and Stings
5 Sep/Oct Tickborne Diseases
To order back issues, from
a single issue, to a great CD
deal, to a full set (140 issues),
please see the order form on
the previous page. CD special (‘02 – ‘09) $65